103 St Ty Hd

COMMENT BY MICHELE TRIPI

A model line like the 103, which has been a permanent part of our watch collection since the 1960s, has truly earned its reputation as a genuine classic. These now-legendary timepieces have thrilled generations of watch enthusiasts – and still set the hearts of countless collectors racing. That naturally leads to the question: What exactly is the appeal of this model series?

The Beginnings of the 103

One person who can answer that is Michele Tripi. Passionate about mechanical wristwatches, he’s especially drawn to our historical models – and none more so than the 103. Over years of collecting these remarkable timepieces, he’s become an expert and even runs his own website where he shares his knowledge (see info box). According to Tripi, the story of the 103 begins in the late 1960s – just before a difficult time for mechanical watches, known as the quartz crisis. A closer look at its origins reveals something striking: the first 103 series, along with its successors, closely mirrored the design of chronographs from other renowned manufacturers of the era. Dial layout, case size, movement setup with tricompax configuration, subdial colors – right down to the smallest detail, there’s a remarkable resemblance. The only real difference? The logos.

Suppliers from Switzerland

An interesting fact that raises questions: how can this phenomenon be explained? Who came first, and who copied whom? “No one copied anyone – including SINN,” explains Michele Tripi. “Back then, most manufacturers didn’t produce in-house or develop their own designs. These watches were made to order – in Switzerland. So naturally, many brands shared the same suppliers for cases, movements, and dials. SINN, like many others, sourced watches that were rebranded, or created their models from supplied components.” This approach was common in the industry at the time. That’s why the typical design of the early 103 can be found among different watch brands. Over the course of some 55 years, SINN has continuously evolved the 103 with its own unique signature, making it unmistakably recognizable today as a classic SINN timepiece.

A New Era Begins

A new era for the 103 at SINN began in the 1980s, marked by several indicators. One of them was sales volume. While earlier only up to 100 units per model were produced, the 103 A and 103 B models were now manufactured in significantly higher quantities. “The major turning point came in the late 1970s and early 1980s,” says Michele Tripi. “In particular, the models from around 1988 can be seen as forerunners of today’s 103 watches. They were equipped with the automatic Valjoux 7750 or hand-wound Valjoux 7760 calibres. Previously, we used Valjoux 72 and 726 movements. These new calibres also gave the watches a new face. The classic tricompax layout gave way to subdials positioned at 6, 9, and 12 o'clock. That marked the beginning of a consistent line within the 103 series – a design language that still defines many 103 models today.” The increase in production volumes was partly due to better availability of watch components. But SINN had also gained a reputation, especially within the pilot community, and was becoming more and more of an insider tip. Demand was further driven by the legendary 1985 Spacelab D1 mission, during which astronaut Reinhard Furrer wore the 140 S model on his wrist.

103 C and 103 St Ty Hd – Historical Sisters

Looking at today’s collection, it’s clear that the 103 St Ty Hd stands on the shoulders of a legendary predecessor. The 103 C with Valjoux 726, produced in very limited numbers, served as the stylistic model for the latest member of the 103 family. What connects both watches? A hand-wound movement, classic tricompax layout with bright subdials, and a tachymeter scale. And: both feature alternating black and red markings on the minute track from 0 to 10 minutes at the 3 o’clock position. So, how does expert Michele Tripi assess it?

The Secret of the 103’s Success

“The 103 St Ty Hd is a beautiful watch and will certainly be well received. It stays very close to the original – dial, hands, no date display – just like the 103 C. SINN has preserved the vintage character while giving it a modern interpretation. That makes it highly appealing to collectors.” In Tripi’s view, the real secret behind the model line’s success lies in its rich heritage. The 103 has remained true to its roots in form and character. Any changes have served only to modernize the inner workings. “It’s the consistency of the 103 series that really resonates with enthusiasts,” he explains. “Also because the SINN brand – for me and many others – is inseparably linked to this watch. With the 103 St Ty Hd, they’ve absolutely nailed it.”

About Michele Tripi

Michele Tripi has been passionate about mechanical wristwatches since the 1980s. He first discovered the Sinn brand in 1998 with the 142 model. His true passion for rare vintage timepieces was sparked by the 103 Klassik. Since 2012, he has been an enthusiastic collector of historical models, with a collection now exceeding 30 rare pieces – including a 103 C, of which only four are known to exist worldwide. For more information and photos, visit his website: https://vintage-sinn-collector.de